Punch Needle Tutorial

Last week when I posted my newest punch needle quilt block, several people commented that they were interested in punch needle and a punch needle quilt but had never done it. I thought I would post a punch needle tutorial to help people get started.

Here's what you need to get started: A punch needle, a threader, pearl cotton # 5, muslin (or white bleached muslin), a pattern to draw or trace onto the wrong side of the fabric and an embroidery hoop-size 6".

Punch needle can be done with many different kinds of threads or yarns...since these are punch needle quilt blocks, I'm using Pearl Cotton. There are many different types of punch needle needles-some of them have a dial that can change the size of the loop that the needle makes. I prefer using a needle that doesn't have a dial and therefore always makes the same size loop. If you are using a needle with a dial-try out different settings until you find the one best for your project. For quilt blocks, I recommend a short loop.

Any simple applique pattern-with fairly large shapes-works wonderfully for punch needle. My patterns are from the book: The Wickersham Signature Quilt from The State Museum of Pennsylvania, by Patricia Harants. The Wickersham Quilt was made in the mid-1850s in York County, Pennsylvania.

Here's the block I'm working on now. You can see the marked pattern, partially worked. Embroidery hoops come in two parts. Put the whole ring under the block. Open the screw (but don't let it come loose) and slip the top of the hoop over the block/bottom of the hoop.
Tighten the screw. You want the fabric as tight as possible in the hoop (like a drum) so if you need to, pull gently on the fabric around the hoop.
Now thread your needle. Put the needle threader along the groove all the way through the needle. (Click on the pictures to enlarge.)
Now put your thread through the end loop of the threader...
and pull the threader completely out of the needle (with the thread! :)
Gently pull the thread out of the threader.
Hold the thread as shown and...
put the threader through the hole in the needle.
Put the thread through the end loop of the threader and pull the threader (and thread) back out the hole.
Here's the threaded needle. Leave only a small tail of thread.
Now you're ready to punch. Your needle should be held so that you do not see the groove in the needle-only the hole. (You can also punch with the needle facing side ways.) You will be punching towards your body.
Push the needle all the way in.
Lift the needle out just enough to clear the fabric and in it goes again for your next stitch. (Don't worry about the tail-we'll leave that for now.)
Keep punching-remember to have the needle go all the way in on each stitch.
Go along the outside, drawn line of your design.
The next row goes right up next to the first row...you'll slowly fill in the design. Remember to keep the thread loose coming off the spool.
The rows should be close together but don't worry if there's some fabric between rows. Look on the other side-the front side-at the loops and you'll see that its filling in nicely.
Oops! What if I take a break and when I come back some stitches have come out? Or, what if my thread was pulled too tightly off the spool and the stitches came out?

Don't worry! Here you see how a stitch has come out. Now, how do I get the thread back to being short-just a stitch from my fabric?
Just gently pull of the end of the thread...remember gently! just until the needle touches the fabric. Now punch some more.
Finished! How do I end? Hold your thumb on the needle and thread and gently pull the needle away from your work.
Now snip the thread very close. (You can snip the beginning tail now too.)
There, a leaf all punched and threads neatly trimmed.
Here's how it looks on the right side. (I don't see any funky long loops on this leaf but don't worry if you have some. I'll post a part 2 tutorial on how to finish up your punch needle that will cover that and more.)
Once you've finished part of your block and you have to move your hoop, you will have to have some of the punched area under the hoop. Its fine, it won't be permanently squooshed or anything but it will mean that the fabric won't be quite as tight in the hoop and you may have to gently pull on the fabric around the hoop now and then.
Hope that's helpful for getting started on your Punch Needle Quilt or any punch needle project.

The Outline Stitch-- Hand Embroidery Tutorial

Months ago I said I would post an outline stitch embroidery tutorial...well, finally here it is. I can't believe how long it took me to get someone to take the photos-fortunately DS was up for New Year's week-end and he took the photos...but it was at night so please excuse the orangy color!

I'm starting with separating the floss strands and threading the needle so if you're good with that just skip on down.

I use six strand DMC floss (here its #310 black) and usually use two strands. Cut off an arms length of the floss and spread the floss out between your fingers.

Now - keeping the floss pressed between your fingers - pull on only one strand. Pull it out completely in one draw.
Since I'm using two strands I just pull out a second one the same way. Don't try to pull two at a time-they will only knot up and make a mess.
I next align the two strands together and hold them in my left hand (my non-dominant hand) pinched between my fingers. I hold the needle in my right hand and with the eye of needle visible to my eye- I just aim at the floss.

This works all the time...by pinching the floss or thread between my fingers the floss (or thread) can't wiggle away from the needle the way it can when you take the thread to the needle. This works as well for six strands of floss as two and for any size needle-including little size 10 or 12 quilting needles.

Now that my needle is threaded, I tie a knot at the end of the thread (yes, I use a knot!). And bring the needle up from the back of the marked fabric on the line I want to start on.

Pull the needle through...holding the thread up above the line, put the needle back in on the line.Bring the needle out on the line back towards the floss exiting the fabric...
Take small stitches...always with the thread held above the line and the needle always going in and coming out on the line. Instruction books always say to have the needle come out about half way back towards the thread but I usually work with smaller stitches and the needle comes out almost at the thread...really just a tiny bit in front.

That's the first stitch...
and the second....
and the third! You just keep going...its that simple!
The outline stitch is faster to sew than back stitch...it also gives a more raised appearance than back stitch.

Hope this has been helpful! I really love this style of embroidery and as you know, use it a lot.

You can download the free hand embroidery pattern Umbrella Girls/Bonnet Girls here and directions to complete a twin size quilt here. The Girls are all done in outline stitch although I did use some Lazy Daisy flowers and French Knots on some of the girls' dresses-just for extra decoration.

Tutorial: A quick and easy fabric grocery bag

I had this 1/2 yard piece of fabric sitting in the closet and thought this would make a great grocery bag! Here's how I did it... its really quick and easy! (click on the pictures to enlarge)

Cut 3" from the selvage edges and trim up the edges...

Fold 1/2" in on both of the long sides of the 3" cut offs...

Fold the piece in half and take it to the sewing machine. Sew 1/4" from the two- fold folded edges and then sew again right up against the fold.

Fold the raw edges of the short sides under about 3/4" and sew that down. Voila! A handle! I did it again and had 2 handles.

Refold the big piece of fabric with right sides touching and the wrong side up.

and fold down 1" from the edge (the edge I'd cut the 3" off ) on both sides...

and sew these hems down.

Put pins in the sides and sew up the side seams.

Pull on the bottom corners to make pointy triangles, measure 2" from the point and draw a line.

Sew on the drawn line.

Repeat for the other side, turn the bag right side out and press.

Find the middle of the top of the bag, put a pin in to mark the center and measure 2 1/2" from the pin and pin a handle in place.

Sew the handle on by sewing a "square" all round the bottom of the handle and then diagonally across. Done!

My new grocery bag...cute, reusable and it won't tear easily like those funny paper fabric bags...I'm going green and you can too!